the chief milkmaid: little brown farm
This is a story you’ve heard before. Executives who are now leaving behind the corporate bustle to seek the simple farming life. Trading in suits and briefcases for mucking boots, hay covered sweaters and wheelbarrows. Quarterly growth indicators measured no longer on spreadsheets but by wheels of cheese, heads of livestock and field yields.
Former accountant and operations manager Vicky Brown is one of those former executives and her new job titles fill her with passion -- goat mother, dairy farmer, cheese maker and Chief Milkmaid.
This story began for Vicky when her daughter received a goat as a FFA (Future Farmers of America) Project. Taking care of the goat, led to more goats, and then cheese making. Vicky and her husband Tom soon decided to seek a better work/life balance for their family and made the move from Southern California to the south end of Whidbey Island where Vicky is now a full-time farmer/owner of a Grade A micro-dairy and creamery.
It’s no longer a 9-5 world but instead a 24-hour one that has no days off. There are morning chores and milking, market preparation, stocking the farm store, deliveries, meetings that take place in fields instead of boardrooms, evening chores and more milking. The bonus checks come in forms of the moments she steals to nuzzle the ladies before the evening milking.
In one of life’s ironies, the people who make our food often don’t have time to fix or even eat meals themselves. Vicky and Tom often have to order from the local pizzeria while trying to get the ladies milked and fed before the sun goes down. The work/life balance eludes them once again.
Once the goats are milked for the final time, they turn their energies to cheese making, which often stretches into late nights. Artisan cheese is such a fine balance between art and science and a balance that Vicky has clearly struck. She sets the standard with her fresh goat cheese line including the famous and acclaimed Caprizella. The cheese, along with her other artisan products are sought out by restaurateurs and chefs like Renee Erickson of The Whale Wins and she often sells out her product at the farmers markets.
Such dedication to the craft has its price. For Vicky and Tom there is the financial strain; they have invested both of their retirement accounts, and depleted their nest egg. Tom has had to take on a full time consulting job during the day and helps on the farm in the evenings. As the winter season approaches, the goat’s milk supply goes dormant and the farm’s future is unclear. Vicky has decided to sell half of her herd to a dairy in the Snoqualmie Valley. It’s a heartbreaking process for Vicky to select which ones will leave, for this is a farmer who loves and cherishes each goat and their contributions to the dairy.
In what might be the most difficult of hurdles, they have dealt with constant government bureaucracy and it has taken its toll. The county recently claimed an easement on their parking lot, which means the Little Brown Farm, could no longer bring in school buses for field trips and tours. Yes, education is definitely a passion too and losing the ability to share her farm with the children was a big blow. Any lesser person may quit, but Vicky is playing the long game.
In another familiar story, Little Brown Farm is one of two dairies on Whidbey. The island once boasted over 20 dairies that eventually all closed –the final one in 2008. Little Brown brought back the dairy farm to Whidbey, but only after 3 years of navigating the grueling licensing and regulations.
With a 5-acre parcel and a solid business plan, Vicky is on track, as is her goal to run a micro-dairy and creamery that is sustainable in every way and to provide the highest of quality in creamery products. It is her absolute passion, and it shows.
Thank you Vicky for being a part of The Female Farmer Project. You can find Vicky and her wonderful products athttp://www.littlebrownfarm.com/
Originally published: October 03, 2013
Comments (14)
Jameson Fink A year ago
I visited Vicky on the farm a few years back while working at Bottlehouse; we spent a day on Whidbey as a team. It was a very moving experience to meet Vicky and hear her story. To witness, as you say, a "farmer who loves and cherishes each goat" was truly memorable. The cheese was also fantastic.
Rachel A year ago
Beautiful, so sad and all too familiar/common. Such stunning photos as usual!
Jane 2 years ago · 1 like
these photos are incredible!!
audra mulkern 2 years ago
Thank you so much Jane, I'm so glad you enjoyed them!
Alissa 2 years ago · 1 like
This story is beautifully done and I have to say my favorite photo is Vicky leaning back with a smile on her face while the goat leans in over her with a smile on its face. :)
audra mulkern 2 years ago
Thank you so much and thank you for taking the time to comment Alissa. I agree, one of my favorites as well. Its as if the two of them are laughing together.
Anne 2 years ago · 1 like
What a beautiful and heart-wrenching story. How is it possible where we live in a world that doesn't value this kind of dedication, love for their animals, and quality of the resulting product? Particularly at a time where concern for what we eat, and how it affects our health and our local economies, why aren't we flocking to support farmers like the Browns?
audra mulkern 2 years ago
Thank you for your beautiful comment. I appreciate you taking the time and sharing this story with others!
Cheese Acres Farm 2 years ago · 1 like
Beautiful story and photos!
audra mulkern 2 years ago
Thank you so much, I appreciate your taking the time to visit and read!
Carole 2 years ago
Love you guys!!!!!
audra mulkern 2 years ago
I'll pass along the note to Vicky and Tom! ;-)
Kim 2 years ago · 1 like
Beautifully captured, both the stor(ies), and the photographs.
Hats off to Vicky, for doing what she does, putting everything into it, and for not giving up. The world would be in such a better place if we all followed our bliss.
audra mulkern 2 years ago
It's so true Kim! Thank you for coming to the site to read her story and taking the time to comment. She's truly amazing!